Building a Sterilite 66-quart Ladder Rack

About

Lidless rack systems can simplify maintaining a large number of animals.  I use a lidless rack for small Kritter Keepers from AC Reptiles (on the left in the above picture) and wanted to use a similar system for my Sterilite 66-quart containers that I use for adults (on the right above).

All of the commercial racks I have found are prohibitively expensive, especially after considering shipping.  I decided to build my own racks using melamine from my local Home Depot.  While I was concerned at first about weight, the whole thing is quite manageable for a single person.  The rack is quite sturdy too.

The best part is the whole thing cost me about $60.

Materials

  • 2 x   2'x4' Melamine laminated chip board
  • 2 x   1'x6' Melamine laminated chip board
  • 1 x   50 count #8 2-inch wood screws
  • 2 x   25 count white nylon screw covers
  • 3 x   25' Band-It white 3/5" pre-glued edging

Tools

  • Table saw (or circular saw)
  • Drill
  • #8 counter-sink combo bit
  • Hammer
  • Rubber j-roller
  • Iron
  • Speed square
  • Edge trimmer

Instructions

Step 1: Ripping chipboard

Rip each 12" x 72" sheet in half length-wise.  I set my fence to 5 3/4" and cut once.  It's not important that both pieces are exactly the same width.  These pieces are rather large so it helps to have another person catch the sheet as you cut it.

You will have four 5 3/4" x 72" pieces when this step is finished.

Rip each 24" x 48" sheet into three 24" x 15 3/4" sheets.  These pieces have to be all the same width so after making the first two cuts, make sure to run the third sheet through.  You may only shave off 1/8" but it's an important cut to make.

The sheets from the store are usually not square or measured precisely.  Try to start from an edge which is as square as possible.  It will help make sure that all of the other pieces are square.

You'll have 6 shelves when this step is finished.

Step 2: Apply edging

Apply edging to all of the pieces.  To apply the edging, use an iron to heat the edging and then use the roller to press down the edging for a tight fit.

For each of the 6 shelves, you can leave one of the short sides bare since it will face a wall.  For two of the four 72" pieces, you can leave one of the long sides bare too.

Now is a good time to identify the good sides of each piece.  I like to mark each piece with some blue painter's tape so that I don't put pieces together wrong.  Usually when cutting with a table saw, one side will have a fair bit of chip out.

Step 3: Bottom shelf assembly

To assemble, first lay out the two back 72" pieces on a raised surface.  Take one of the shelves and line it up flush with the end of the two 72" pieces. Using clamps, line up the shelf and make sure everything is as flush as possible.

To attach the shelf to the side pieces, drill two holes with a counter sink bit one inch from the edge.  I find that using a speed square to draw drill marks is fast and accurate.

Step 4: Preparing a spacer

The best way to ensure a tight fit for the containers is to use the containers themselves as a spacer between the shelves.  There needs to be a little extra space since the container has a little bit of give and there must be enough space to slide the container out.  I find that five business cards taped to each corner of the container works really well.

You can always make the space tighter by adding thin material to the bottom of the shelf.  You cannot sand the melamine though so err on the side of giving extra space.

Step 5: Second shelf assembly

Stand the work piece up so it's resting on the first shelf.  Take care as the long pieces are not supported well.

Using our spacer to separate the shelves, lay out the second shelf, clamp, and attach with two screws.

Step 6: Attaching back support

With two shelves attached, lay out one of the long sides as a spacer on the ground.  Now lay down the work piece so it's resting on its side.  Lay out the remaining side on top of the shelves with two inches of the shelves sticking out.  This makes it easier to insert the containers.

Screw the side down to the two shelves, flip the work piece over, and repeat for other side.  Notice how I used one of the pieces of shelving as a support for the long side pieces.  This just sits there loose.  The weight of the side pieces will hold it in place.


Step 7: Attaching remaining shelves

With all four side pieces attached, use the spacer and lay out the remaining shelves, clamping, then putting two screws in each side piece.  I start at the back of the shelf using a clamp to keep the shelf in place.  After putting in two screws, I remove the clamp and drill and screw the remaining holes.

Repeat this step for all the remaining shelves.  You will end up with the four sides sticking up about six inches.  These will become the legs once we flip it over.

Step 8: Attaching screw covers

Attach screw covers and use a hammer to gentle tap the screw covers tight.  You should see the plastic flatten slightly.  When attached properly, they will not come out easily.  Remove any remaining blue tape and wipe off saw dust.

Step 9: Insert containers

Flip the whole unit over, and insert containers.  You will likely have some chip out that shows.  If you care, you can cover it up pretty well with some white touch-up paint.  You can also use small pieces of hard board to create stops on the back although I haven't found it necessary yet.



Copyright (C) 2009  Anthony Liguori <anthony@codemonkey.ws>